Archive for September, 2010

Mine tour in Potosi

Monday, September 27th, 2010

Went to one of the mines in Potosi this morning. It was a very interesting experience. I am not sure if I can call it good or bad, it was just interesting. Koala tours was the company I booked through, they did a great job. I can’t remember our guides names but they were knowledgeable and had decent English.

We started off in a bus from the office to a shop where we all changed into our mine garb, a hardhat with headlamp, pants and a jacket. They also had us leave our shoes and wear some galoshes. We all looked pretty funny. They also sold us bandanas to wear over our mouths to keep some of the dust out. I bought a bright red one, just in case of a cave in or I get lost I wanted to be as visible as possible.

Next stop was the Miners market. Here we are supposed to stop and buy presents for the miners. There are lots of options, but the most popular are dynamite and soda. We all bought our presents; I bought two packs of dynamite, two packs of gloves, and two bags of coca leaves. Others bought mostly the same sort of stuff.
Afterwards we all piled back into the bus and went to an ore processing plant. This was neat as we got to see what happens to the rock, it is crushed then run through a bunch of different chemicals (cyanide and calcium sulphate). Once they separate the mineral from the waste, it is shovelled into piles to dry before it is sent to Peru or Chile to be smelted. The difference between how much the concentrate is sold for compared to what the miners get paid is crazy.

Next up was the mine itself. There are four working levels in the mine we went to. We went to three of them. The first tunnel looks like any other mine, you see tracks heading into a hole in the side of a mountain. This is where the similarities to other mines I have been in end. We walked on the first level for about 10-15 minutes the roof ranged from about 4 feet tall to over ten feet in places. I had to crouch over most of the time. I tagged my head on the ceiling a few times, god thing I was wearing a hardhat. We all stopped and took a break before heading down to the second level. There are no elevators in this mine, we had to climb (read slide) down to the next level. Then we had to crawl, hands and knees for about ten minutes, it was pretty tight. If you are claustrophobic I do not think this would be a good part for you. We met our first miner on the second level. He had been working different mines for about 15 years. He was working for himself on seams that bigger groups had left behind. He only worked a few days a week, and was able to make enough for the rest of the week. We gave him a few gifts. Then we moved on to the next level, this was somewhat easier, as it was just another climb/slide down thing. There is a big hole in the side of the wall going down, that you can see the track below about 15 feet down. There is a little stick across it to keep you safe!!! Lol This level we met four or five more miners mining in different areas, and different minerals. We met a few other miners working for themselves and we also met guys from one of the big groups. The big groups take out rock in quantity( 40 tons/day) the small groups or solo miners take it out by quality( 20-30 KG/day). The solo guys actually make more but the big groups the pay is more regular.

I was getting really hot and it was really hard to breath when we were moving around. I had to take off the bandana, as I was starting to feel panicky, and it was making it harder to breath. Once I caught my breath I was alright. We started to head out and as the air got cooler I felt a lot better. The way out didn’t take very long and the only extra thing we did was stop and see the Tio. The have a god in the mines that represents the power of the earth underground. Some miners leave offerings for it, and it is supposed to give them good luck finding ore. It was kinda crazy looking. But interesting. The sunlight looks so bright after being down there even for a few hours. I can hardly imagine what its like doing that 6 days a week.

I am not sure if I can recommend doing the tour, it definitely is unlike any tour I have ever done before. Try it if you really want to, its not expensive and I think you can help out a few miners with the gifts. Also it will give you some perspective on what their life is like. I didn’t enjoy the trip but it was something I am glad to have experienced!!!

More later…

Potosi

Sunday, September 26th, 2010

My friend Claire is leaving today, so I decided to go with her. We are going to Potosi today and will tour the mines there tomorrow. Afterwards I will get a bus back here and she will head on to La Paz. I went out for breakfast today so I could use the hi speed internet to make some phone calls and the internet is broken here… lol just my luck. Ridiculously priced breakfast at a tourist café so I can use the internet without the net. And now my food is here and it isn’t even very good!! Grrr…. Not starting well

Worst food day so far… breakfast sucked, lunch wasn’t good, and dinner was awful!!! Not going to go into why each was so bad, just take my word for it. Did get some nice pictures of Potosi, there are lots of interesting doors with knockers here. Being Sunday night nothing was open, we walked around twice and only a very few shops were open, I hope tomorrow after the mine tour more will be open and it will be better…

More later…

now both the truck and I need a toe!!!

Friday, September 24th, 2010

The whinging part first. Remember grandpas story about walking up hill both ways for X miles in snow??? I think minus the snow I got one better. I walked about 20k today and it was up hill both ways, and the second half I had a broken toe on my right foot and the toe nail on my big toe on the left foot was almost torn off. Ok enough of that…

Today started off great… woke up went out and took some photos. Came back to the place we were staying did some push ups and then had a fantastic breakfast of porridge (oatmeal) with jam and apple bits. After we packed up and started the hike back to quilla quilla. The hike took about two hours on the road, so the trail yesterday didn’t actually save us anytime. We had to wait in quilla quilla for about an hour for the Camion (truck). We were hoping it wouldn’t be full, but it was jam-packed. We squished in as well as about 10 other people. The ride back to Sucre takes about 3.5 hours. My legs were not looking forward to standing the whole time. Little did I know, about an hour into the ride, just after we reached the pass at the highest point, it felt like we hit a huge pothole then BAM!!! I had three people laying on me, and the crossbar I was hanging onto broke off; I was trying to push it up as there were still people hanging onto it. Finally the door was opened and people started rushing for the door… I was only three people from the door and people were pushing and couldn’t get out, so I leaned over and stopped the other people with my arm from getting out so we could get the people next to the door out. I looked over my shoulder and could see some people behind me bleeding. No one seemed to care they were just pushing and shoving trying to get their stuff and them out of the truck. Once I got out I was helping pull out bags, and people as fast as we could get them out. I figured that was the best way to give one of the other volunteers room to start patching up the bleeding people. It took about ten minutes to empty the truck, several people started walking down the mountain right away and others just sat on the side of the road waiting for the next truck. We treated about 5 people for cuts and one lady for pain in her wrist. Then my bleeding toe got some help, before we decided to walk to the river. The river was about 10k from the crash, but we knew that was our best chance at catching more traffic.

We started walking, and after about 15 minutes I noticed that the toe with the bandage wasn’t hurting half as much as one on the other foot. It was hurting about every step. The next break we took I moved it around a bit and sure enough its broken. I soldiered on and we kept walking, we did finally make it to the river after walking a little over two hours. I wasn’t going to make it much further, after the adrenaline wore off it was getting harder and harder to block out the pain. Another truck came by ten minutes after. Most of the people on the truck were from the wrecked truck. We crowded on again, this time the ride was less than an hour but standing the whole time was still no fun.
I got us a taxi back as I did not want to walk anymore, once home I took a very long hot shower. Cleaned up my toes and the tore toenail doesn’t look as bad as I first thought. But the broken toe is still broken… I taped it to the toe next to it and just laid in bed for a while. Made some dinner and then watched a movie. Don’t plan on doing much of anything tomorrow either. Will let you all know how I feel in the morning…

more later…